I am happy to introduce – Rock Star Coat, a free knitting pattern. Instructions are written for eight different sizes, and it’s easy to adjust the pattern to your specific needs: make the yoke deeper, add more space for the body, make longer sleeves. Hope you enjoy!
Rock Star Coat is worked seamlessly in rounds from the top down. First some short rows are worked back and forth to shape the neck. Raglan increases are then worked to the final yoke depth. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves (stitches for sleeves are placed on hold), and from this point the lower body is worked in rounds to the lower ribbing. Sleeve stitches are picked up again to work the sleeves in rounds down to the cuffs (the sleeves are designed for ¾ length, and have no decreases). A bigger ease is recommended for sleeves due to the fluffy yarn. Then a collar is worked along neck opening.
Purchase a ready-to-print pdf with all instructions without advertisements HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Pdf is only available in English.
An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Scheepjes Furry Tales x 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) balls US 11 (8mm) and US 10.5 (7mm) – 16” (40cm) and 32” (80cm) circular needles Stitch markers in three different colors, yarn needle to weave in tails Furry Tales yarn is available in Scheepjes local shops and via online retailers:
44.5 (46.5: 48.5: 51.5: 53.5: 56.5: 58.5: 62.5)” 111 (116: 121: 128.5: 133.5: 141: 146: 156) cm Suggested ease: 12-16” (30-40 cm) for the body and 2.5-3.5” (6-9 cm) for the upper arm. A bigger ease for the sleeves is suggested.
Gauge: 8 sts and 12 rows to measure approx. 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”) in Stockinette. The gauge swatch before and after blocking will be approx. the same.
Phot credit: Jenna Bowers
approx.: approximate BOR: beginning of the round circ: circumference CO: cast on foll: following inc: increase (insert right needle under the bar between current and next st knit- or purlwise (depending on if you are on RS or WS), complete knit st (on RS) or purl st (on WS) in usual way as if you worked into yarn over) k: knit k2tog: knit 2 stitches together m: marker p: purl pm: place marker rep: repeat rm: raglan marker rnd(s): round(s) RS: right side sl m: slip marker st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side
w&t: wrap and turn (knit to the point where you will wrap and turn. Bring the yarn to the front between the needles. Slip the next stitch on the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. Bring the yarn to the back between the needles. Slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left. Turn.
*…….; rep from * once more/twice more/3 more times Work the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as stated.
With US 11 (8mm) longer needles CO 44 (44, 48, 48, 48, 56, 56, 60) sts using your preferred method (I used long tail CO).
SET-UP row (place markers for front bands and raglan increases)
Note: use stitch markers in different colors for the front bands
WS: K10, pm for front band, p2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) for front, pm for raglan, p4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8) for sleeve, pm for raglan, p12 (12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16) for back, pm for raglan, p4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8) for sleeve, pm for raglan, p2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) for front, pm for front band, k10, turn.
SHORT-ROW shaping for back
Short row 1 (inc for back and sleeves): (RS) K22 (22, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28, 30), pm for BOR (use different color), knit to one st left before next rm, inc, k1, sl rm, k1, inc, k1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3), w&t; (WS) purl to BOR (sl m when you reach them – here and throughout), sl m, purl to one st left before next rm, inc (purl), p1, sl rm, p1, inc (purl), p1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3), w&t. [4 sts inc’d]
You’ll have 14 (14, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18) sts for back, 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 8) sts for each sleeve, 12 (12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14) sts for each front.
Short row 2 (inc for back, fronts and sleeves): (RS) Knit to BOR, sl m, *knit to one st left before next rm, inc, k1, sl rm, k1, inc; rep from * once more, k1, w&t; (WS) purl to BOR, sl m, **purl to one st left before next rm, inc (purl), p1, sl rm, p1, inc (purl); rep from ** once more, p1, w&t. [8 sts inc’d]
You’ll have 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) sts for back, 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11) sts for each sleeve, 13 (13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15) sts for each front
Next row – RS: knit to end (remove BOR m). Next row – WS: K10, sl m, purl to next front m, sl m, k10, turn.
Photo credit: Laura Jackson and Theresa Pearson
INC SET 1 (2 rows) – for all sizes except 4X. For 4X size proceed to INC SET 2
Row 1 – RS (inc for body and sleeves): K10, sl m, *knit to one st left before next rm, inc, k1, sl rm, k1, inc; rep from * three more times, knit to next front m, sl m, knit to end, turn. [8 sts inc’d]
Row 2 – WS (no inc): K10, sl m, purl to next front m, sl m, k10, turn.
You’ll have 18 (18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, -) sts for back, 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, -) sts for each sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, -) sts for each front
Repeat last 2 rows – 0 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1, 2, -) more times
You’ll have 18 (20, 22, 20, 22, 24, 26, -) sts for back, 9 (11, 11, 9, 11, 13, 15, -) sts for each sleeve, 14 (15, 16, 15, 16, 17, 18, - ) sts for each front.
INC SET 2 (4 rows)
Row 1 – RS (inc for body and sleeves): K10, sl m, *knit to one st left before next rm, inc, k1, sl rm, k1, inc; rep from * three more times, knit to next front m, sl m, knit to end, turn. [8 sts inc’d]
Row 2 – WS (no inc): K10, sl m, purl to next front m, sl m, k10, turn.
Row 3 – RS (inc for back and fronts only): K10, sl m, *knit to one st left before next rm, inc, k1, sl rm, k to next rm, sl rm, k1, inc; rep from * once more, knit to next front m, sl m, knit to end, turn. [4 sts inc’d]
Row 4 – WS (no inc): Rep Row 2.
You’ll have 22 (24, 26, 24, 26, 28, 30, 24) sts for back, 11 (13, 13, 11, 13, 15, 17, 13) sts for each sleeve, 16 (17, 18, 17, 18, 19, 20, 17) sts for each front.
Repeat last 4 rows – 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 7) more times
You’ll have 38 (40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27) sts for each sleeve, 24 (25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31) sts for each front.
At this point yoke measures 22.5 (24.2: 24.2: 25.8: 27.5: 28.8: 30.4: 33.3) cm/ 9 (9.7: 9.7: 10.3: 11: 11.5: 12.2: 13.3) in
SEPARATE for body and sleeves
(RS) K10, sl m, knit to next rm, remove rm, slip foll 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27) sts on waste yarn, remove rm, using the backwards loop method (or your preferred method) CO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 8) sts for underarm, knit to next rm, remove rm, slip foll 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27) sts on waste yarn, CO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 8) sts for underarm, knit to next front m, sl m, knit to end.
Next row - WS: K10, sl m, purl to approx. center back, inc (purl), purl to next front m, sl m, k10, turn – 95 (99, 103, 109, 113, 119, 123, 131) sts for body (back and front together).
Row 1 – RS: K10, sl m, knit to next front m, sl m, k10, turn.
Row 2 – WS: K10, sl m, purl to next front m, sl m, k10, turn.
Repeat last two rows until body measures approx. 20.5 (21.25: 22: 22.25: 22.5: 22.75: 23: 23.5)” / 52 (54: 56: 56.5: 57: 57.5: 58.5: 59) cm, or 1” (2.5 cm) less than desired length from back neck. Remove both front m.
Change to US 10.5 (7mm) needles.
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1, turn.
Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1, turn.
Rep Row 1 once more. BO loosely knitwise.
Note: it is highly recommended to use BOR marker for sleeves, even though they have no decreases. Furry Tales is a very fluffy yarn, and BOR marker will help to keep accurate row count for both sleeves.
Set up rnd: Using US 11 (8mm) needles, with RS facing you and beg at approx. center of the underarm, pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) sts, pick up and knit one more st in the corner, place 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27) sts and knit across them, pick up and knit one st in next corner, pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4) more sts at the underarm, pm for BOR. [25 (27, 27, 28, 30, 33, 35, 37) sts for a sleeve]
Knit in the rounds until sleeve measures approx. 1” (2.5cm) before ¾ of the arm length (approx. 15”/38cm). Dec one st on the last round by working k2tog, then proceed to ribbing. Ribbing
Change to US 10.5 (7mm) shorter needles. *k1, p1; rep from * around. Rep last rnd two more times; then BO loosely. Rep for other sleeve. COLLAR
Using 7 mm needles pick up and knit 44 (44, 48, 48, 48, 48, 56, 56, 60) sts along neck opening. Knit in rows back and forth until the collar measures approx. 3-4” (7-10 cm) in height. BO loosely. Weave in all ends.
Congratulations! Your Rock Star Coat is now finished!
Life is good! Recently I’ve taken a few very simple rules on board in my quarantine life: not to worry about small things and find a reason to smile every day. The sun is shining brightly, my wip basket is full of new projects, and surprisingly I find time to work on new patterns every day.
Today I would like to share my newest knitting experiment with you. I should say, I am pretty much in love with it! You know that feeling, when your expectations and ideas come true into exactly what you planned from the beginning.
My furry coat is finished and free knitting pattern is on its way!
I called it Rock Star coat, haha. Not because I feel like a rock star myself, but because I was inspired by Jenna’s pictures, who was helping me to test this pattern.
Photo credit: Jenna Bowers
Rock Star coat is a total beginner-friendly knitting pattern. You literally only need to know just basic stitches (purl and knit). The coat is worked top down in rows. First several short rows are made to raise back neck, and you will need to make wraps & turns, but with furry yarn no one will see your mistakes in case you make them.
After that the yoke is worked with raglan increases until the separation point for body and sleeves. And then lower body and sleeves are finished separately. I chose ¾ length for my sleeves, but you can of course make them longer. As you can see in Jenna’s picture, she made the whole coat longer as well.
Photo credit: Jenna Bowers
The coat was designed as oversized, and I would recommend going for a bigger ease in the body and especially the sleeves. That’s because furry yarn “eats” ease quite a bit, and the sleeves might become tight.
The front bands are worked together with the yoke and body, and I didn’t plan buttons… I am thinking about either not adding any closure at all, or maybe invisible clasps. But to be honest, I am happy with my coat as it is!
No need to say my Rock Star coat was inspired by Scheepjes Furry Tales yarn (yarn review HERE). Softest and coziest yarn I have ever tried. In my opinion it works best with knitting (check my Furry Cloud Cowl), but can be used for crochet as well – see my Baby Bear of Furry Tales.
My designing adventure in the garment world continues. I’ve become a little addicted to creating sweaters and cardigans. And brioche crochet became one of my favorite crochet techniques. So why not to combine them into something? A few months ago I got an idea of an oversized cropped summery sweater with slim short sleeves. And today the pattern is ready for release. Let me introduce – Brioche Lane Sweater.
The pattern is available on Etsy HERE and Ravelry HERE with 20% discount though Monday, April 27th, 2020. The price you see is already discounted and you don’t need any codes.
Recently I have taken an online class in grading knitwear garments (ohh, how thankful I am to find this course!), and Brioche Lane Sweater was the first one to which I applied my new knowledge. So it comes in more sizes than my previous garment designs – XXS-4X to fit the bust 32-48”.
The sweater was designed to fit with 8-15 in (20-38 cm) of positive ease at the bust and 1.25-2 in (3-5 cm) of positive ease at the upper arm. Because it’s an oversized design, it can also fit larger sizes. Just make sure to take accurate measurements of your actual bust and circumference of the upper arm to see which size might work best for you.
If you fall in between two sizes, I would suggest choosing the larger one. In the picture you can see size S (for bust 36”), and my actual bust is 35”. I like the spacious clothes, so I would probably go even for a wider one for myself.
The front of my new sweater is decorated with a brioche panel, and its width differs from size to size keep the final look of the sweater balanced. Brioche crochet is very easy to work, and progress pictures in the pattern will guide you through every round.
Because Brioche Lane Sweater was created as a summery garment, I chose Scheepjes Bamboo Soft yarn. It comes in nice and rich colors, and the yarn itself is very soft. My choice of colors was dark gray with golden. This combination is a bit out of my comfort zone (I am not a fan of yellow in general), but surprisingly I like it a lot. And I can already say that this summer my new brioche sweater will be one of the most worn pieces in my modest collection.
You can have a look at Bamboo Soft colors at your local Scheepjes yarn shops, or order yarn online via international retailers (some of them might postpone shipping worldwide in the time of this blog post, because of the lockdown in many countries):
I am also very proud to show you work of my wonderful testers:
1. Sandra Veneman (L, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 2. Lisa Marlow (S, Scheepjes Skies) 3. Elizabeth Kalka (XS, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 4. Laura Jackson (XS, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft and Skies) 5. Esther Schippers (2X, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 6. Pam Hibbert (L, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 7. Loele van den Bergh (S, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 8. Sarah Fabbri (L, Scheepjes Organicon) 9. Jenna Bowers (L, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft)
How pretty are they?!..
And just to remind, Brioche Lane Sweater pattern is available on Etsy HERE and Ravelry HERE with 20% discount though Monday, April 27th, 2020. The price you see is already discounted and you don’t need any codes.
It has not been long since we talked about mosaic crochet (check my latest Ocean Time Mandala pattern), and here is new pattern again! Well, technically it’s not a new one, as we had been working on it for at least one year now. But it was finally brought to public last week. And I am talking about Celestia blanket, exclusively designed for Crochet NOW magazine crochet-a-long 2020.
You might think I am a bit obsessed with mosaic crochet at the moment, and you will be right. When Jenny, an editor for Crochet NOW magazine, approached me two years ago with an idea of designing a CAL for them, I knew it would have meant to be something mosaic. Why? Because the technique is so simple, and the finished fabric is so very effective. Every single time.
Celestia blanket is about hexagon motifs, each with a new mosaic stitch pattern. I’ve been experimenting with different shapes and hexies is one of my favourite, too. So, Celestia is a mix of several loves of mine which met together in one blanket.
We decided to bring new CAL in two colourways – both with Scheepjes yarns. The original version was designed with 100% premium acrylic Colour Crafter yarn, and I was asked to use gentle pastel shades together with bright icy white.
To be honest, in the beginning I was a bit skeptical about this color scheme, as pinks and baby blues are absolutely of my comfort designing zone. But when all motifs were finished and joined together, I fell in love! And so fell in love ALL my friends who saw the blanket before it was shipped to a publisher. It looks very soft, and gentle, and fragile. A true Celestia look, whatever it means :)
For the second colorway Jenny asked me to pick yarn and colors myself, and because I am big fan of Scheepjes Metropolis, I chose this yarn. In dramatic graphite gray for the main color and rainbow splash for a contrast.
This sample was a bit of a challenge, as I didn’t make it myself. Several lovely ladies kindly agreed to help me test the pattern, each of them made motifs with one contrast color, and Jenny joined them and added a tiny lace border. So I haven’t seen the finished blanket until the very end. I was hoping the colors would play together nicely, but the final result turned out even better than I thought! Love it, too.
Despite difference in weight (DK for Colour Crafter and fingering for Metropolis), I decided to use same hook size (4 mm) and gauge for both blankets. And they are exactly the same size – approx. 125cm x 165cm.
Mosaic crochet uses very basic crochet stitches, but sometimes their placement might be tricky. Celestia blanket pattern comes with full row-by-row written instructions and charts. If you want additional support while working on this CAL, be sure to join this Facebook group and get in touch with others who are taking part!
As already mentioned, Celestia blanket was exclusively designed for Crochet NOW magazine, and will only available there. A new portion of instructions will be published monthly. Part 1 can be found in Issue 55 of Crochet Now which will be in shops and available online from Thursday 23rd April!
If you’re unable to get to the shops, don’t worry! You can order a copy online with free delivery from www.craftstash.co.uk from the on-sale date, or have it delivered directly to your door before anyone else when you subscribe today. If you subscribe now, you will additionally receive all the yarn you need to create the Colour Crafter version of the blanket, delivered safely to your door (*UK offer only...)!
If you are located outside UK, please, be aware that due to the current COVID-19 situation, the international shipping might be affected. You might want to get in touch with your stockist to check they are shipping internationally before placing your order. To be on the safe side, you can still get access to the CAL via digital editions at Pocketmags, the magazine can be ordered for worldwide delivery from Craftstash, and international subscriptions are available at Moremags.
Crochet NOW magazine has teamed up with UK retailers to deliver your ready yarn packs for Celestia CAL. If you want to purchase on, I would be very grateful if you use one of the links below. They are affiliate and I might be compensated with a tiny amount from each sale while you will not pay anything extra: Wool Warehouse, Deramores, Black Sheep Wools.
Because international shipping is very limited at the moment, please, also check with your local Scheepjes stockists to see if they carry yarns and colors. Find a complete list of materials below.
The life of a crochet designer is nice and creative, but sometimes also challenging. My biggest challenge is to organize my stash and keep track on all yarns and colors I have. We moved the house half a year ago. To be honest, it was scary even to think of packing all those tiny balls. I even joked with my husband, that I pack just my yarn, and he does the rest of the stuff. It all went well though, and I even bought a new IKEA cabinet to fit everything I kept in boxes before.
One day I will make a virtual tour in my brand-new studio for you. But this post is about yarn. With every new Scheepjes release I am getting a few test samples to try. And today I would like to tell you about Mighty*. This is how my space looks now. You can see it on the upper shelf of my central cabinet :)
First I need to say, I have never seen or come across anything like Mighty before. It is a natural fiber blend with 32% Jute and 68% Cotton. And jute is what it makes Mighty yarn unique, in my opinion. Just to add, Mighty yarn comes in 50g balls with 80 m each. And 4 mm (G) hook is recommended.
Making a jute rug has been my dream forever. I have been looking at jute “yarns” in building and DIY stores for ages. You know those ropes you used to tie together packages? I even bought two of those, and even tried to crochet with them. My hands hurt terribly. It was all scratchy and itching. I think I managed to finish a small potholder but didn’t move any further.
So you can imagine my happiness when I first heard about release of Mighty yarn! My happiness doubled when first samples landed in my box. I made a quick flower to see how it’s worked up. And, wow, it was so soft. I must say I fell in love. The only disadvantage I can see at the moment is limited range of colors. But fingers crossed new colors will be added over the time.
I didn’t plan any rug designs at that time, but because I had perfect yarn for a rug I just had to design something for it. And today I am happy to introduce it to you! My Ocean Time Mandala Rug.
Ocean Time Rug pattern is available HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy, and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, March 30th, 2020. The discount was already applied, the price you see is final, and no codes are needed.
Usually, mosaic crochet uses stand-alone charts or charts together with written instructions. But because my new mandala is worked in flat rounds (and I have not seen anything done like this before), I decided to include round-by-round written instructions together with progress pictures. Due to multiple increases on every round, the chart would look confusing. And I thought that progress pictures would make a better job.
My rug is approx. 90 cm/ 35.5" across. My lovely testers Laura Jackson, Lisa Marlow, Esther Schippers and Faye Pike made fantastic job testing the pattern. Faye decided to use Scheepjes Secret Garden yarn, and I am simply in love with how it turned out. It has both vintage and boho touches. Check Faye's Ravelry project page for all details about yarn and color changes.
And just to remind you, the pattern for Ocean Time Rug is available HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy, and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, March 30th, 2020.
An exciting mail landed in my mailbox in early March. Both my personal and creative lives were a bit busy last couple of weeks, and I didn’t have a chance to share a review of latest Scheepjes YARN book-a-zine with you. But I can’t wait anymore, as I am so very proud of my new design. And I want the whole world to know about it, haha.
The newest YARN book-a-zine is called “NOW Age”, and it’s already 9th edition. It contains 16 gorgeous crochet and knitting patterns and features work of two artists: Nathalie Wijker and Flora Bowley, and an interview with Job de Bondt (owner of Scheepjes) about sustainability.
As always, the quality of a book-a-zine (designs, pictures, paper, layout) are just magic. And I am happy to be a part of it.
My contribution was Free Flow Shawldesigned for a chapter Spiritual. This design is knitting – very unusual for me. As you now, I mostly design crochet. I’ve learned many things, tips&tricks and techniques in past 5 years of professional designing. And I am still challenging myself.
I was asked to create a shawl which would resemble the texture of agate stone. The first time I saw an inspirational board, I thought about knitting short rows immediately. And because I have never tried them before, it seemed like a great chance to add another technique to my skills – both crafting and designing.
It took a while before I figured out the math for a half circle. I chose garter stitch for the short rows, because it makes wraps&turns invisible. Just perfect for beginners in knitting. And Secret Garden yarn* is very forgiving for knitting, because it has irregular texture and can easily hide all “uncertainties” of the gauge.
I should say I love each and every pattern from the latest YARN. And my personal favorites are Chakra Energy Flags by Nerissa of Miss Neriss,
And in a meanwhile, Scheepjes has launch a brand-new publication “Pretty Little Things”. I’ve got the copy of the first edition just today (luckily post is still working for us).
Maybe I should give a short introduction of what Pretty Little Things are and what they are about. It’s a small paper publication with three small patterns/projects inside. The first one is called Pets and features a Kitty Cat Doorstep (crochet pattern), Goldie the Fish Bag (sewing pattern) and Dog Tooth Jacket (knit pattern).
All three are relatively small and quick to make. And they can become great companions for travels (not actual at the moment, but let’s hope we will be able to travel again very soon!) or just small projects to give a break from current huge wips.
As you can see, Pretty Little Things is a multicraftual publication. In each themed issue which will come out monthly, you’ll discover one knit, one crochet and one craft project, plus the occasional bonus pattern, designed to appeal to crafters looking for a more beginner-friendly, quick or affordable make.
Every edition will also feature Scheepjes yarns (obviously), and both knit and crochet projects in the first one are using Chunky Monkey yarn.
I was intrigued by a mosaic pattern of the Dog Tooth Jacket and grabbed yarn and needles immediately to make a small swatch! It’s been long ago since I tried fair isle knitting last time. Now, looking at the picture, I am not sure what I was doing in the beginning and end of every row. :) Looks like tension is off... YouTube will probably be my best friend next weeks. And why not? Why not to use plenty of time we have right now to master a new technique?
By the way I must say, that Chunky Monkey* is perfect yarn for any kinds of experiments. It gives nice stitch definition, easy to knit and crochet with, and easy to frog!
Pretty Little Things are available from the same retailers as YARN book-a-zine (check links above).
I’ll get back to my knitting swatch, and see you soon!
Today I feel like it’s time to get out from the designer’s shadow and share something personal here. Who would think that the whole world can be changed in just a week because of tiny microorganisms. I believe today there are almost no countries left in the world that are not affected by COVID-19. The Czech Republic where I live has taken very strict measures. All schools, stores, museums and other places were closed last week for none knows how long. And today the whole country is under strict quarantine. People are not allowed to leave their homes with a few exceptions. Though it is recommended to stay at home, if you can.
DISCLOSURE: the mace mask in the picture was only used for illustrative reasons, to metaphorically show how I feel. My family has not stocked up with them. This one was kept in my cupboard for ages. I encourage you NOT to stock up with face masks, so that medical personnel have enough of them to help us. Thank you!
I’ve spent hours and hours online last days reading sad news coming from Italy and other countries. I should have flown to the Netherlands to meet up with my crafty tribe last Friday. But I canceled the flight even before the borders were officially closed… I feel like I have to act responsibly these days. Not only towards myself and my family, but also towards other people around.
My parents are both 70+ years old, and I wish everyone in their surrounding acted responsibly, too. My family life has not changed much. We don’t have any signs of panic, though I do feel insecure… We still go out to walk the dog in the fields. We order groceries online. We cut off all real-life social contacts for at least a week.
Yesterday my friend who lives just around the corner, created a chat for several friends to talk online via WhatsApp. I laughed at first saying it was silly. But then I thought it might be not so bad idea. Feels like all communication will go online in next days.
I am thankful for crochet being a huge part in my life. No isolation is felt here, and I’ve done lots of pattern writing in past days. Literally, at least 4 new designs are almost ready to come out to the world soon.
Why am I writing this… I just wanted to let you know that if you feel lonely, and locked and isolated these days, please know there are hundreds and thousands of people out there who might feel the same. And crochet is something that can help up to feel included.
Let’s connect online! Join my Facebook group, share your latest Lilla Bjorn creations.
This is the right time to maybe learn a new technique you have been looking at for ages. Or grab a new pattern and finally give it a go.
If you need more yarn and can afford to buy it, this is the right time to support your local yarn shop.
Call your parents, call your friends. Stay safe and please, take care!
Rozeta crochet-a-long was definitely the biggest event in my designer’s life last year. Thousands of people all over the world joined me and Scheepjes in the Rozeta journey. And thousands of lovely Rozeta blanket have been created. New pictures arrive to my social media feeds every day. And every day my heart is melted with quiet happiness.
Photo credit: Evelien van der Drift
Most of the Rozeta’s are used as blankets. But some of them were turned into rugs, pillows… and wall hangings! I’ve received quite a few messages with questions about how to mount Rozeta on a wall.
To be honest I didn’t do it myself, and all my samples are proudly kept at Scheepjes HQ. The Rozeta, as any other crochet piece, can be just hang onto the wall, but because it is big and heavy, it can stretch a lot and lose its shape. That’s why a certain kind of frame is needed for mounting.
Some CAL followers mounted their blankets and shared pictures on Facebook and Instagram. One of them was Evelien van der Drift. She kindly gave me permission to republish her step-by-step pictures on my blog, with short description for each step.
How to Mount a Crochet Blanket: Tutorial
Evelien used an old board from under the mattress and metal wire. This kind of boards with holes can be found in the building stores. The holes make it easy to weave in the wire, and also keep the board light weight.
Step 1. First Evelien cut the board to match the size of the Rozeta. Because crochet fabric is stretchy, the border should not be much smaller than the blanket – just enough to wrap the edges of the blanket and to pull it reasonably, without destroying the texture of the stitches.
Step 2. Then three wooden pieces were attached with nails onto the back side of the board: each on top and bottom, and third one to the middle of the board to keep it stable.
Step 3. Evelien wove the metal wire along all four sides of the board close to its edges.
Step 4. Then Rozeta was carefully wrapped around the board, slightly pulled and sewn along the edges to the wires on the back side of the board. Evelien used Scheepjes Whirlette yarn* - same as for the last rounds of Rozeta.
Step 5. A wooden piece was attached to the wall and finished Rozeta was hung onto it!
P.s. If you decided to keep your Rozeta just as a mandala, you can mount it to a round wire using the method of my friend Jellina. You can follow step-by-step tutorial HERE on her blog.
US 2.5 (3mm) and US 11 (8mm) 16” (40 cm or longer) circular needles
Yarn needle to weave in ends
River Washed: 24 sts x 30 rows = 10cm/4” with cabled pattern on 3mm needles after blocking Furry Tales: 8 sts x 12 rows = 10cm/4” with Stockinette stitch on 8mm needles.
CO: cast on k: knit p: purl RS: right side 3/3 LC: slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle. 3/3 RC: slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle. WS: wrong side
Size: approx. 30cm x 150cm
Copyright. An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, shared, republished (online and off-line), redistributed, translated without permission or edited in any way – in part or in a whole. Video tutorials for this pattern are not allowed. Please, always credit me as a designer. Thank you!
With Scheepjes River Washed (Wheaton 950) and 3mm needles CO 73 sts.
Repeat rows 3-10 until piece measures approx. 150cm. Then repeat rows 3-4 once more and fasten off loosely.
With Scheepjes Furry Tales (Prince Charming 975) and 8mm needles CO 25 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k25, turn. Row 2 (WS): p25, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until piece measures approx. 150cm, then fasten off loosely.
Sew Cabled Top and Furry Bottom along short edges shaping two cowls (be careful not to twist). Then place top and bottom facing each other with WS and sew both layers together along the edges using yarn needle and River Washed yarn – with mattress stitch. Weave in all tails.
It all started with a Sunny Border pattern, which was aimed to enlarge Sunny Mandala and turn it into a square. Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo on Ravelry and Instagram) was helping me with testing. But because Laura is always taking tests creatively and passionate, she decided to turn her Sunny Border into a blanket by adding small squares and Dandelion border around.
Garden Sun. Stone Washed version. Photo credit: frozen-photo
Laura’s project became very popular. And although she posted general notes about how to put all three patterns together on her Ravelry project page, my inbox was still getting full with messages asking for a complete tutorial on how to make this blanket. And finally here it is!
Garden Sun. Stone Washed version. Photo credit: frozen-photo
Where to find Patterns:
Sunny blanket is a combination of three patterns: Sunny Mandala, Sunny Border and Dandelion Border. They are available in my shops on Ravelry and Etsy:
If you choose to purchase them on Ravelry, add all three patterns to your cart and use code SUNNY for 4.5 USD discount.
!! NOTE: Previous purchases will also count and you will not pay twice for any pattern. But please, note that if you purchased some of these patterns with a discount before, then your discount will be smaller now.
~ 4mm crochet hook (used throughout the pattern) ~ Stitch markers, scissors, blocking tools, yarn needle to weave in ends
Garden Sun. Stone Washed version. Photo credit: frozen-photo
Laura Jackson, Hilde Tindlund, Nina Mayer, Chuck and I have recreated Sunny blanket in several colorways to show you different variations. You can choose one of them or maybe get inspired and pick your own colors based on our small collection.
Sunny blanket comes in four colorways. Please, note that yardages listed below are not official yarn packs. All three patterns are written in overlay crochet technique, with lots of front post stitches. And final yarn amounts will depend on your own crochet style and tension. The numbers listed below are based on the average yarn usage by testers. And a few numbers are given in the pattern to help you stay on track with the yarn. But please, be aware that you might need to add extra yarn in case your gauge is off.
If you are in Canada or US, make sure to check Laura’s shop Taemombo for ready yarn packs in all four colorways (with both versions). Laura is offering all three patterns for free for those customers who purchase a yarn pack from her to make a Sunny Blanket.
Garden Sun. Stone Washed version. Photo credit: frozen-photo
If you’d like to make Sunny Blanket but not sure you can handle the patterns, or if you prefer to crochet large projects together with someone, I would like to invite you to my group on Facebook where an informal make-a-long for Sunny Blanket will be hosted.
We will begin on February 26th, 2020. There will be no strict dates and no rush. Because you will have all complete patterns at once, you can work at your own path and ask questions when you are stuck with the pattern. I hope this make-a-long will be a very relaxed one, and that it will also give you time to work on other wips at the same time (and I bet you have lots of them at the moment).
Hi there! We discussed different ways of knitting last week and came to the conclusion that whatever way you knit, it’s fine. If it works for you and if your stitches look right in the end. I decided to relax about my “weird” way of knitting. Especially after hearing that lots of other people successfully use it in the different parts of the world. Truly, there is no right or wrong knitting!
In a meanwhile, I have finished my Furry Cloud Cowl! These pictures arrived from Minsk, from my dear friends Oleg (photographer) and Natasha (model).
This winter in the Czech Republic is incredibly warm. We had a little bit of snow just once or twice, and it didn’t last for long. In Belarus there were just a few snowy days as well, and we were lucky to catch them in the pictures.
So here is my brand new Furry Cloud Cowl! A very simple knit with two layers: cables were knitted with Scheepjes River Washed yarn* (Wheaton (950) - 5 balls), and the bottom is straightforward stockinette fabric with Scheepjes Furry Tales yarn* (Prince Charming (975) - 3 balls).
As you can see in the pictures, my cowl is pretty long – approx. 150cm in length (30cm width), because I wanted it to be enough to double wrap around the neck. To make it very cozy and snuggly. This way you can even pull one wrap over the head, to make an improvised hood.
But it is very easy to make the cowl shorter, for just one wrap. All you need is to make both layers twice shorter. And you’ll need twice less yarn, obviously.
I chose a very simple knit pattern for the top. It consists of five 9-stitched braids. Easy to remember and meditative to knit.
And the bottom is just one fluffy cloud of 25 stitches. With large (8mm) needles and Furry Tales you won’t even notice when it will be finished! The fabric is growing in your hands very fast... And it also makes the cowl reversable!
End of the year is the time to make resolutions and put some goals for the coming year. I haven’t put any strict goals or must-do-s for myself, as I know my creativity will bring me somewhere else anyway. But what I really want to accomplish this year is to design more crochet garments. My modest collection is slowly growing. And today I would like to introduce a new addition. Copenhagen Cardigan.
The pattern is available online on Etsy and Ravelry and is offered with 30% discount through the first release weekend (until Monday, January 27th, 2020). The pattern has been discounted already and the price you see is final, so no additional codes are needed.
Round yoked sweaters are very trendy and hot right now, but they don’t fit equally well everyone. And kind of “set-in”, “controlled” sleeves might be a better option for someone.
I should admit that designing a cardigan with shaped neck together with growing raglans and cabled mesh pattern on fronts was a bit of a designing struggle for me. But in the end I won this battle! And it’s proved by the fantastic testres’ work.
Copenhagen Cardigan is designed to fit with 4-10cm (2-4in) of positive ease at the bust. This cardigan is worked seamlessly from top down. First the raglan yoke is worked in rows to separation for body and sleeves. The lower body is worked in rows to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down to the cuffs. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.
I made two samples myself. One is long sleeved in a natural brown-ish color – cozy and casual. And another one is in deep blue with short sleeves – perfect as a summer version for warm days (if made with linen, cotton or bamboo yarns). And a nice fit for a dress, for example.
The name to Copenhagen Cardigan was given by the name of the shade I used for the very first (natural brown) sample. Have I ever shared my love for Scheepjes Metropolis yarn* with you? I’ve already used it once for Metropolis Cardigan last year, and I am pretty sure I’ll choose it again and again. Because this yarn is on top of my favourites.
Metropolis is 4ply yarn targeted as the sock yarn (it was released with the picture of socks hand knitted in all colors). It contains 75% Merino extra fine and 25% Nylon, but because it is very soft, in my opinion it is just great for knitted and crochet garments!
Not to mention 80 gorgeous heathered colors. Each of them contains 3 different shades which are blended together tastefully. I chose shades Copenhagen (066) and Cairo (070) for my samples. And my testers decided to crochet their cardigans with Metropolis yarn as well. Looky look at their color choices (just to be precise, some of the testers used stash yarn, and two cardigans were made with Scheepjes Bamboo Soft – a nice option for those with allergy to wool).
1. Sandra Veneman (size XL, Scheepjes Metropolis) 2. Esther Schippers (size 2X, Scheepjes Metropolis) 3. Elizabeth Kalka (size M, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 4. Loele van den Bergh (size S, Scheepjes Metropolis) 5. Laura Jackson (size S, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft)
1. Sarah Fabbri (size L, stash yarn) 2. Lisa Marlow (size S, Scheepjes Metropolis) 3. Faye Pike (size XL, Scheepjes Bamboo Soft) 4. Elizabeth Barraclough (size M, Scheepjes Metropolis)
I’d say Copenhagen Cardigan is a classy design and everyday wearable. It has mesh decorative panels on both fronts with cables and lace. I first tried of lace and cables for Living Lagom shawl, and liked it very much.
I played with the stitch pattern a bit and used different stitches for front and back. Please, keep in mind that the pattern has two gauges and they should be very similar. If you fails to keep the same gauge for the front and the back, your fronts will be growing faster – good for the big bust owners For the others, like me, longer fronts will result into a modern stylish fit.
And just to remind you, Copenhagen Cardigan pattern is available online on Etsy and Ravelry and is offered with 30% discount through the first release weekend (until Monday, January 27th, 2020).
Creating a Cloud, or About Continental Russian Speed Knitting Style
If you ask me what I learnt first – knitting or crochet – I’ll have to think for a while. Because I honestly don’t remember. I know I learnt both crafts at nearly the same age, when I was 5 years old. But no idea what was first. I used to knit very much in the past, before one day I saw a picture of an overlay crochet mandala. And this is how my love affair with crochet restarted.
For the last 6 years I’ve been mostly designing crochet. Because it took a while to learn crochet terms in English, and the difference between the US and UK temrs. It also took a while to learn how to write a good crochet pattern. And it took a while to just get the hang of designing.
But in a meanwhile I was also doing knitting, now and then. And my new wip is also about knitting. If you know me as a crochet designer, please, don’t worry. I won’t leave crochet and that will be my main designing stream. But sometimes it’s nice to have a little change. And also some yarns are asking for knitting. Like Scheepjes Furry Tales.
Not that it’s impossible to crochet with fur yarn – of course, you can absolutely do that, and I know that my fellow designers are working hard at the moment on new crochet fluffy projects. But I honestly think that knitting works a bit better for furry yarns, because it’s easier to see (or better to say “feel”) the stitches. And the better chances are you’ll stay on track with the stitch count.
So… my new design is about knitting. And do you know what I’ve figured out about my knitting recently? That I am an alien. “I am a little alien in the world of knitting”. This is what I discovered when I tried to follow English knitting patterns for the first time (as you may know, I am from Belarus. And I am using Russian language in my daily life. And of course I used to follow only Russian patterns in the past).
What I’ve discovered is that I purl in a very weird way. After purling the stitches appear to be placed differently on a needle for the next knit row. And instead of knitting them in front loops, as you would normally do, I have to knit them in the back loops.
Reverse purl and knit makes the knitted fabric look just normal. That’s why I have never questioned myself if I am doing this “right” or not.
I’ve recorded a short video with a gauge swatch for my new design to show you what I mean.
I was struggling to read knitting patterns in English, because some knitting terms didn’t work with my style – I had to reverse everything. But the charts work just fine, as I am making the same stitches as drawn in the charts but in my own way, without following the description.
And just a few days ago I occasionally saw a video on YouTube about “Continental Russian Speed Knitting”. And yay! This is exactly what I am doing. So obviously I am not the only one in the world. And this is probably how we all were taught to knit in the former USSR. You can actually search for more videos about Russian knitting style. There are lots of them out there.
After seeing the video I felt brave enough to share my knitting style with you. I thought maybe you would like it, and would decide to try. Because you make minimum movements with your fingers and wrists, this style is really speedy. And for me this is just the only way I can knit :)
P.s. And regarding my new design, it will be double-layered and reversible. With cables on top and fluffy cloud at the bottom. But you will have to wait a little bit to see the reveal!
I’ve always thought about myself as very conservative when it comes to yarns. I’ve always wanted solid colors, preferably DK weight which goes together well with a certain hook size, no fancy content… But being a blogger and collaborating with a yarn company means that new yarn samples land on my table from time to time (quite often to be honest). And then of course you want to try them!
This is what happened to Whirl*. I was pretty sure that gradient or variegated yarn is not a good match to my crochet esthetics. But then I tried Whirl and a new love affair began (remember my Whirl Mandala Cardigan?). And it has been lasting for a few years now.
In last November soft fluffy coziness landed in my mail box. Those were four skeins of brand new Scheepjes yarn called Furry Tales. I decided to give it a try and design a baby bear (free crochet pattern) for the launch of this yarn. And it felt so incredibly soft. So… of course I knew I need to use it again, somehow.
Furry Tales is obviously not the first faux fur yarn out there. They’ve been presented on the yarn market for a while now, and became especially popular last year with all the fluffy madness in interior and fashion design.
To stand out Scheepjes introduced different colors – very bright and even rainbow – to aim not only for interior and adults fashion, but also for the kids. I have a son, and rainbows with unicorns are not for him. But I thought I would use Furry Tales to design something for an adult. A cute and cozy accessory for both women and men, to keep us warm during cold times.
I’m thinking of the knitting cables. But because they will be not visible with furry yarn, I decide to combine it with something else – River Washed*, for example. I wanted to go for greens, or blues…
If you are wondering about Furry Tales yarn and would like to put your hands onto it, here are some brief facts. It’s Super Bulky yarn sold in 100g skeins with 57m each (22 colors are available). The content is 100% polyester. 9mm hook and needles are recommended by the label, but I think I will try smaller needles – 8mm. Will see how it works.
Hello and welcome to the very last bit of Rozeta CAL. I hope you had a very good rest during holidays with lots of time to finish your Rozeta. Most likely you have yarn in some colors left. And you were probably guessing why there was wooden ornament and embroidery thread included into the Rozeta kits. So today I will answer your questions! We will be using leftovers and wooden ornament to create a small hanging decoration – a micro Rozeta, as I called this pattern.
Micro Rozeta pattern uses same stitches as you practiced a lot during the CAL. The textured flower is made in overlay crochet technique. The pattern is not tricky, and I hope that with the help of progress pictures below you will have no difficulties to finish it.
Hanging ornament consists of two parts. The top is decorated with flower, and the bottom is plain. I added very simple embroidery onto the bottom. You received plenty of embroidery thread in your kits, and you can go a bit “wild” and creative with embroidery. And hopefully Rozeta leftovers will be enough to finish several micro hangings.
The pattern below uses US crochet terms. And you can also download pdf files in English (both US and UK) and Dutch. The pdfs contain only written instructions, and progress pictures are available for viewing on my blog. Please, note that there is no video available for this pattern.
Hope you’ll enjoy the pattern! And I can’t wait to see your pictures.
dc double crochet FPtr front post treble crochet FPtr3tog front post treble crochet 3 together rep(s) repeat(s) RS right side sc single crochet st(s) stitch(es) WS wrong side
*…….; rep from * once more/twice more/3 more times Work the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as stated. The same applies to any number of asterisks: **…….; rep from ** etc
Micro Rozeta hanging ornament consists of two parts: top with textured overlay flower, and plain bottom. Wooden ornament is stitched onto the bottom part, a little embroidery is optionally added onto the bottom part, then both parts are crocheted together (and stuffed if desired).
Every round of the top flower is made with just one color. The yarns are not cut after every round but are carried up to next rounds on the wrong side. The colors are changed in the joining slip stitch (unless otherwise stated in the pattern).
The color key for Yarn A and B is just for the needs of this pattern and doesn’t correspond with the key for the Rozeta CAL blanket. Please, use the colors according to your taste, and use more than two colors per ornament, if you like.
All sc stitches are made into back loops (BL). Front loops (FL) stay unworked and overlay stitches from next rounds are anchored to them by inserting the hook from the bottom to top (see pics in the pattern). Stitches of the previous round are skipped (or not skipped) behind overlay long stitches as stated in the pattern. Please, be careful with skipping stitches.
Copyright. An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
TOP MANDALA with FLOWER
Round 1. With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 8sc into magic ring, join with ss in first sc – 8 sts
Round 2.On this and all next rounds all sc are made in BL.
Continue with Yarn A. Ch1, 2sc in same st as join, 2sc in each st around, join with ss in first sc (change to Yarn B) – 16 sts
Round 3.All eight FL on Round 1 will be occupied with one dc.
With B. Ch1, 1sc in same st as join, *1dc (FL) in a st of Round 1 directly below, skip no sts behind dc, 2sc; rep from * 6 more times, 1dc (as prev), skip no sts, 1sc, join with ss in first sc (change back to Yarn A) – 24 sts
Round 4.First sc is made in same st as join.
With A. Ch1, *3sc, 1dc (FL) in a st of Round 2 visible between two dc below, skip no sts; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first sc (change to B) – 32 sts
Round 5.First skipped st will be same st as join.
With B. Ch1, *1FPtr around dc of same color below, 2dc into the hole at the bottom of FPtr just made, skip 3 sts, 1sc in next dc of prev round; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first FPtr, ss in next dc (change to A) – 32 sts
Round 6.First sc is made in same st as last ss.
With A. Ch1, *1sc, 1FPtr around next dc of same color below, skip 1 st, 2sc in next st, 1FPtr around same dc below, skip 1 st; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first sc (change to B) – 40 sts
Round 7.First skipped st is same st as join.
With B. Ch1, *1FPtr3tog over FPtr and 2 dc of same color below, skip 1 st, 4sc making first sc in next FPtr; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first FPtr3tog (change to A) – 40 sts
Round 8.First skipped st is same as join.
With A. Ch1, *1FPtr2tog around two FPtr of same color below lying to the right and to the left of FPtr3tog below, skip 1 st, 2sc, 2sc in next st, 1sc; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first FPtr2tog (change to B) – 48 sts
Round 9.First sc is made in same st as join.
With B. Ch1, *2sc, 2sc in next st, 3sc; rep from * 7 more times, join with ss in first sc (change to A) – 56 sts
Round 10.First skipped st is same as join.
With A. Ch1, *1FPdc around FPtr2tog of same color below, skip 1 st, 7sc, 1FPdc (as prev), skip no sts, 6sc; rep from * 3 more times, join with ss in first FPtr (change to B or any other color, cut A) – 60 sts
Round 1. With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 12dc into ring, join with ss in first dc – 12 sts
Round 2. Ch2, 2dc in same st as join, 2dc in each st around, join with ss in first dc – 24 sts
Round 3. Ch2, 1dc in same st as join, 2dc in next st, *1dc, 2dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join with ss in first dc – 36 sts
Round 4. Ch2, 1dc in same st as join, 1dc, 2dc in next st, *2dc, 2dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join with ss in first dc – 48 sts
Round 5. Ch2, 1dc in same st as join, 2dc, 2dc in next st, *3dc, 2dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join with ss in first dc – 60 sts
If after this round bottom is the same size as top with flower, please, fasten off. If bottom is smaller (or doesn’t fit wooden ornament in size), please, make one more round with sc (insert the hook through both loops), and then fasten off.
Sew wooden ornament onto the bottom part using yarn needle and embroidery thread. (Optional) Make embroidery as shown in the pictures.
Then place top and bottom parts together with WS facing each other and crochet them together with sc through BL of the last round. If you want to stuff ornament, please do it before two parts are completely joined. Join the round with ss into first sc, fasten off and hide the tail inside ornament. (Optional) Make a tassel.
Congratulations!! Your Micro Rozeta hanging ornament is now finished.
Hello and welcome to Part 11 of the Rozeta CAL, aaaaannnd this is the last week in our Rozeta journey. Some of you are right on track and ready to add the final border around your blanket, some of you are a little behind. And some of you has just started not long ago or will receive the kit as a Christmas present. This or another way, I hope you are enjoying your journey. I am! A lot! It feels incredible to see your beautiful creations in all possible and impossible colors. And it feels incredible to know Rozeta is being crocheted right now in almost every corner of the world.
The last week is starting today, and we will be making a very easy and relaxed border around the blanket. If you are using the kit and your gauge was right on spot, and if you weighted your masterpiece after every part as asked in the pattern – you should be fine with the yarn. And you should have enough yarn to finish the border.
But if for some reason you have run of the main color, or any of the other colors, on this part you can work with any leftovers you have. You can even finish half of the round with one color and join another color for the rest of the round. It doesn’t matter at all!
Round 1. Yarn was not fastened off after last row of the bottom tapestry panel, so we will continue from there. If you don’t have Yarn A left, please choose another color.
The pattern gives exact number of stitches you need to make along the edges of the bottom tapestry panel. It might be tricky to space them evenly. Please, try to use this formula: 2dc in dc row, 1dc in sc row, 1dc in next dc row, 1sc in next sc row. Most likely you will need to make occasional increases (or decreases) to get a correct stitch count, but the formula mentioned above will give you a certain rhythm.
If for some reason you can’t get the exact stitch count, don’t worry and don’t frog too many times. Just make sure your edges are straight and don’t ruffle, and leave the first round as it is. You will play with skipped stitches on the next rounds to accommodate the stitch count.
TIP: to avoid visible holes on the edge, please, try insert the hook into the posts of the dc stitches (not under them). You will be “splitting” dc’s with the hook, and the holes won’t be so noticeable.
Join Round 1 in the corner as stated and change to Yarn D (E) in the last slip stitch.
Round 2. On this round we will be making small “scallops”. You should have 2 or 3 stitches left before the corner on each side. If you get different number (because of the different number of stitches on Round 1), you can just play and skip more or less stitches between some scallops. After joining in the corner, change back to Yarn A again grabbing it up behind your work.
Round 3. On this round we will be making V-stitches. They should be made over the edges of two scallops – not in front of them. V-stitches will pull the scallops down a bit, and they will get a kind of 3D shape.
Round 4. This round is about scallops again. They are made in ch1-spaces on top of the V-stitches from previous rounds.
Round 5. We will be making V-stitches again.
You can either fasten off after Round 7 or continue with scallops and V-stitches to make the border wider.
Annnd…. Your Rozeta is fully finished now!!! CONGRATULATIONS!
You can now block the blanket to give it a perfect rectangular shape. Please, first pin the large central mandala into a perfect circle. And then stretch a little bit the rest of the Rozeta’s body, and pin it. Please, don’t stretch too much, as it may pull the stitches and damage the texture.
And now… And now I don’t even know what else to add… Rozeta was such an experience for me – both as a crochet designer and the maker. It took a certain part of my life, and piece of my heart. And although Rozeta is out there already, it will still remain my little precious crochet baby. Thank you so very much for joining me. And for trusting the pattern.
p.s. I know you might be wondering what about those tiny wooden ornaments, and embroidery thread you got in the kit. I won’t reveal the secret yet. Let’s wait for January 8th, 2020 and see, what else is coming our way :)
Hello and welcome to Part 10 of the Rozeta CAL. We are almost finishing this week – can you believe that?! Our Rozeta window will be completed and all we need is just to frame it with the final border. And it means next week will be the last one… Today we continue building bottom tapestry panel. We will work in back and forth as on previous part. A few more popcorns will be added, and the arches will be shaped at the bottom.
If you are using the kit, you might have noticed that some of the colors are almost finished. If your gauge was on spot throughout the CAL and if you took your time to carefully measure your blanket after every part and if you weight the yarn after every part – then you could compare your usage of yarn with numbers given in the pattern.
But if you haven’t done anything of mentioned above, you might start running out of the colors on this part already. Yarn B might be the tightest in both Our Tribe and Colour Crafter kits. This color will be only used this week for the bottom tapestry and we will not need it for the border. You’ll need approx. 13g of Yarn B in Our Tribe and 11g in Colour Crafter. But if you don’t have enough yarn already, don’t worry!! You can substitute it with Yarn F which you should still have plenty of!
Bottom tapestry panel (and especially final stained glass border which we will be making next week) is not strict with placement of colors. So if you feel like you are running out of some of them, you can play around and replace the colors to your taste.
If you feel like you are running out of the main color (Yarn A), you can simply omit several rows at the bottom of the tapestry panel to make it shorter, and use different colors for the final border.
But again, if your gauge was correct and if you used approximately the same amount of yarn for every part as noted in the pattern – you should not run out of yarn in any color by now. The yardages for the Rozeta kits were calculated based on the yarn usage from all testers (and we had lots of them). And the yarn usage given in the pattern is the maximum what testers used.
Row 22. Starting with this row we will be building “branches with leaves” inside the arches. On this row make FPtr’s (US terms here and throughout) around the popcorns below. And don’t forget to skip one stitch behind every FPtr.
Row 24. The popcorns on this row are made around single crochet stitches from 2 rows below. Esther made them a bit differently in the video (she is making them around dc from previous row). Either way will work well, and the exact placement of popcorns should not give a significant difference in the final look. I just felt like it is easier to find fourth sc on both sides of FPtr below. Please, change color after every popcorn (in ch1 on top of it), and after FPtr. And don’t forget to skip the stitches.
After this row we will cut Yarn C for Colour Crafter and will be using only Yarn B for both versions for the next rows.
Row 25. Simple row with new color for Colour Crafter. If you don’t have enough of Yarn B, you can switch to Yarn F at this point.
Row 26. FPtr on this row are made around FPtr below. Skip one stitch behind every FPtr.
Row 28. Make popcorns in the same way as on Row 24.
Row 30. Repeat of Row 26. Cut Yarn B for both versions at the end of this row.
Row 31. On this and all next rows we will use only Yarn A and Yarn F.
Row 32. Repeat of Row 24 but with Yarn F.
Row 37. On this and all next rows we will be making increases and decreases to shape the bottom of the arches.
Rows 39-43. Continue to work as per pattern shaping the bottom of the arches.
Congratulations!! Part 10 of the Rozeta CAL is completed! See you next week!
Hello and welcome to week 9 of the Rozeta CAL. If you read this it means you survived the corners, and we can move forward to the bottom panel with arches. I am often asked why I decided to add this panel only on one side of the blanket to make it asymmetrical. As you probably remember, Rozeta was inspired by the gothic church windows. And bottom panel seemed ideal to recreate the same effect. It took me at least two months to figure out the stitch pattern for this part. I had many sleepless nights and made countless swatches. Until finally was decided to come back to tapestry technique again.
The bottom panel consists of two parts and we will be making it during two weeks. I hope it will take you less time than the corners and long rounds on the mandala’s edge. And I also hope it will give you extra time to catch up with the CAL if you are a bit behind. Though, it’s not a race of course, and you should not keep up with the same pace at any point.
As already mentioned, today we will be doing tapestry crochet again. But we will work in rows and not in rounds. At the end of every row you will turn your work – so we will be alternating right and wrong side all the time.
There is one very important moment I would like to draw your attention to. We will carry two yarns across the rows, in the same way as we did for the central mandala. BUT. The very beginning and the end of each row will be made in Yarn A (main color) only. It means that you will begin every row with just yarn A and will change to a contrast color as indicated in the pattern. You will grab contrast yarn up from previous row. And you will make sure the floats always stay on the wrong side. After the last repeat with contrast yarn is completed, you will drop it (ALWAYS leaving on the wrong side), and you’ll finish the row with Yarn A only.
Why do we need this trick? Tapestry crochet tends to shrink your piece. Especially if you are trying to pull inner yarn (please, DON’T PULL it while working on the bottom panel). And because Rozeta blanket consists of several different shapes (tapestry circle, overlay circle, corners) we need the bottom panel to be the same width as your current square. So it must not shrink. And if we make the edges with just Yarn A, we’ll have a narrow section on each side of the panel without inner yarn. And it will allow us to stretch the bottom panel a little bit, if needed for blocking.
Another important thing I would like to tell you is that the inner yarn WILL be SEEN through the stitches throughout. Mainly because we work in back and forth. So please don’t try to do anything extra to hide it. Scroll down the photo-tutorial below and you will see, that my inner yarn is not hidden.
Row 1. We begin on the wrong side. The yarn is attached in any ch2-sp in the corner. No matter which corner you choose. Begin with just yarn A, change to contrast yarn as indicated in the pattern, continue with both yarns across. After last repeat drop the contrast yarn in front of work (on the wrong side), and finish the row with just Yarn A.
Row 2. This and next even rows don’t give you exact instructions. You will be working with just sc stitches (US terms here and throughout) changing the yarn as per previous row. Again, begin this row with Yarn A, change to contrast yarn on the last yarn over before the next stitch of same color (grab contrast yarn up behind your work), continue with both yarns across until you finish last repeat with contrast yarn, then drop it behind work (on the wrong side) and finish the row with just Yarn A.
Row 3. Nothing unusual happens here. Just follow written instructions grabbing up and dropping contrast yarn as needed.
Row 5. New color change appears on this row.
Row 7. On this row you will get waves on the edge because of increases and decreases.
Row 9. On previous rows you were making dc3tog’s, and now we change to dc2tog’s. Just something to remember :) I made a mistake on this row myself and had to frog.
Next rows are just the same as the previous ones. Nothing special or difficult.
Row 20. This row is very special as we will be adding overlay popcorns. They will be made in a modified way – same as you made bobbles on the overlay round border. Please, note that all modified popcorns are made with tr stitches, so they are longer than the ones we made in the corners. After completing the popcorn change back to Yarn A on next ch1, skip one stitch behind the popcorn and continue to carry both yarns across the row.
Row 21. Same as Row 19. Please, refer to the picture of how I insert the hook into the popcorns. All ch1 on the top of popcorns should be skipped.
Congratulations! We are done through the half of the bottom tapestry panel. One more week to go and we can jump to the final border. Can’t wait!!
My designing journey began 5 years ago with a small crochet bear. I made one hoping to sell it at the local craft market. And it was sold in no time. Later Fredrik, a good friend of mine from Sweden, ordered another bear from me for his friend’s baby. He was hoping to give me the push in designing. And it worked! I made quite a few little bears since then. And I am always very sentimental about them. So when Scheepjes asked me to design “someone soft” for their new yarn release, I didn’t hesitate for a moment. A baby bear it was meant to be. A Baby Bear of Furry Tales. And this pattern is released on my blog today. Hope you’ll enjoy!
About Scheepjes Furry Tales yarn
Furry Tales is a fluffy, faux-fur yarn perfect for creating the snuggliest and cuddliest of soft toys and items for children to be enjoyed during story time. Available in a selection of vibrant monotones, magical space-dyed colourways and natural shades with contrasting white tips whose names are inspired by fairy tales, this yarn can create everything from the most lifelike toy bears to quirky, colourful critters. Its tactile quality and comforting touch will be sure to draw the attention of your little ones.
Furry Tales is a soft and durable yarn that pairs perfectly with many Scheepjes yarns, for example, Stone Washed and Catona. It can be used to create a variety of stuffed toys for children to enjoy at home or to be used as props by teachers in the classroom during story time, accessories for infants like cuddle blankets, or faux-fur trims on garments and homewares.
Specifications: 100% Polyester, 100g / 57m, Needle/Hook Size 9mm, Super Bulky Weight, Sold as 100g balls.
Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase yarn via any of links below, I might be compensated with a tiny amount while you will not pay anything extra. Thank you for supporting my blog! You can find Furry Tales in local Scheepjes shops and via international retailers:
Scheepjes Stone Washed* (831 Axinite x 1 ball) Scheepjes Furry Tales* (973 Baby Bear x 3 balls) 3.5mm and 4mm crochet hook A pair of safety eyes, leftovers of cotton yarn for the face embroidery, leftovers of yarn for the striped scarf, yarn needle to put the Baby Bear together.
Finished size: approx. 40cm Gauge is not critical for this pattern.
Abbreviations (US terms)
approx. – approximate ch – chain rep – repeat sc – single crochet st – stitch sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Round 1. With Stone Washed* and 3.5mm hook. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 6sc in magic ring, tighten ring, don’t join the round – 6 sc
Continue to work in continuous spiral, don’t join the rounds. For an easy count, mark last stitch of every round and move the marker up to the next rounds as you progress.
Round 2. Skip ch1, 2sc in each st around – 12 sc
Round 3. [1sc, 2sc in next st] x6 – 18 sc Round 4. [2sc, 2sc in next st] x6 – 24 sc Round 5. [1sc, 2sc in next st, 2sc] x6 – 30 sc Round 6. [2sc, 2sc in next st, 2sc] x6 – 36 sc Rounds 7-10. 1sc in each st around. At the end of Round 10 change to Furry Tales yarn on the last yarn over. Cut Stone Washed yarn – 36 sc
Round 11. Continue with Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook. 12sc, [1sc, 2sc in next st] x12 – 48 sc
Next rounds of the head are made with Furry Tales yarn. It will be very difficult to see the stitches, so try to keep the same tension (it will be obviously looser with Furry Tales yarn) and number of stitches as per pattern. If you miss some of the stitches, just add increases evenly to keep up with the correct stitch count.
Rounds 12-19 (8 rounds). 1sc in each st around – 48 sc
Round 20. [6sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 42 sts Round 21. 1sc in each st around – 42 sc Round 22. [5sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 36 sts Round 23. 1sc in each st around – 36 sts Round 24. [4sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 30 sts Round 25. [3sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 24 sts
The head is shaped a little bit. Look at it from the front. A wider fluffy part above the nose will be a forehead of the bear’s head. Insert safety eyes symmetrically between the last round of the nose and the forehead. Stuff the head firmly. Make sure to put enough stuffing into the nose part.
Cut yarn leaving approx. 30cm tail. Close the hole using yarn needle. _______________________________________________________
With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook. Rounds 1-6. Repeat first six rounds of the head – 36 sc Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the body measures approx. 15cm. Next round. [4sc, 1sc2tog] x6, fasten off – 30 sts _______________________________________________________
EARS – make two
With Stone Washed yarn and 3.5mm hook. Rounds 1-6. Repeat first six rounds of the head – 36 sc Rounds 7-12. 1sc in each st around. After last round fasten off leaving approx. 50 cm tail – 36 sts _______________________________________________________
ARMS – make two
With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook. Rounds 1-2. Repeat first two rounds of the head – 12 sc Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the arm measures approx. 12cm. Fasten off. _______________________________________________________
LEGS – make two
With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook. Rounds 1-2. Repeat first two rounds of the head – 12 sc Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the leg measures approx. 10cm. Fasten off. _______________________________________________________
FINISHING and PUTTING TOGETHER
Fold the ear. Using the yarn tail sew it together through the loops of the last rnd and pull the yarn for the desired shape. Position ears onto the head and sew them around to the head using yarn tail.
Stuff the body a little bit (it should not be firm) and sew the head onto the body opening using Stone Washed yarn in two strands and yarn needle. Don’t stuff legs and arms. Sew them onto the body with two strands of Stone Washed yarn. Hide all the loose tails inside the body.
Hello and welcome to Week 8 of Rozeta CAL. I can’t believe we are that far already! The longest rounds are over and today a new bit is waiting for you. We will grow four corners to square up the mandala. Yes, you heard it right – all four corners in one week. The very first one might need a bit more time, as you will be coming through the new shape and joining technique. But next three corners should be easier and faster. A corner a day and you will be more than fine and in time for the next week.
Before the Rozeta CAL began I received quite a few e-mails and private messages about joining in the pattern. If there are any seams, and if separate parts should be put together. This week’s instructions will answer all your concerns. No, we will not make separate bits and join them later.
The corners will be attached to the mandala (or the octagon to be more precise) as-you-go.
Each corner is started with Yarn A (main color). Corners are worked in rows alternating right and wrong sides. And at the end of every row you will skip certain number of stitches on the mandala and then make a slip stitch to attach growing corner to the octagon.
Please, read instructions carefully, especially for the ends of the rows. They will tell you exactly how many stitches you should skip on the octagon (mandala) and where every slip stitch goes. If you count well, the last rows of the corners will be attached in the ch2-spaces on the edge of the mandala.
~ Always mark the first and the last stitch of every row (and move the marker as you progress). It will help you to see where exactly the first and last stitches of the next rows will go. Honestly, markers will save you time and prevent from frogging in many places.
~ Watch the shape and size of your corners carefully. If you switched for the smaller hook on the overlay edge of the mandala, then continue with a smaller hook for corners. Or even change to even smaller hook at some point. The angle of your corner should be approx. 90 degrees. If it’s getting smaller, then you most likely need to adjust your tension.
You can easily check the angle with just a square/rectangular piece of paper. Place it onto your corner as shown in the picture below and watch the edge of your corner. It should be approximately the same angle.
~ DON’T STRESS OUT if your corner is becoming a bit larger or anything. The corners will NOT have ideal shape, but we will add a border around entire blanket later, and we will block it. So any slight differences in shapes should be solved and work themselves out.
~ DON’T STRESS OUT if after nearly finishing the corner you realize you have a bit more or less stitches on the edge of the mandala before next ch2-space. You can improvise and skip more or less stitches than stated in the pattern towards the end of the corner. If the shape of your corner is not vividly weird, there is nothing to worry about.
But of course if your corners look too much asymmetrical or you obviously messed up with something – then you’ll need to frog and remake. But let’s hope that won’t happen.
Row 1. It’s very important to find a right placement for the first group of stitches. Follow the instructions in the pattern, find the correct stitch and attach Yarn A in the third stitch before marked one. After Row 1 is finished, be sure to mark the first and last stitch of the row.
Row 2. This row is made on the wrong side. Stitch markers should help you to find the first and last stitches easily. Be careful when making slip stitches at the end of the round. You should look for the free stitches on the edge of the mandala (after the one which is already occupied with slip stitch from the previous row). If you are not sure, please, watch Esther’s video.
Row 3. We continue to work on right side again. A bit of texture will be added here with back post stitches. A cute ridge will appear on the right side.
Row 4. We continue with the texture and add another ridge by working front post stitches on the wrong side.
Row 5. Nothing special about this row. It should be easy to find the first and the last stitch of the previous row. Please, count total stitches at the end of every row – they are not too many and it will save you lots of nerves on the next rows!
Row 7. We’ll add a bit of texture again – with popcorns this time. There are different ways of making them, but for Rozeta we will do them as 5dc (US terms here and to the end). You’ll have 4 popcorns along each edge.
Row 8. Easy one, but please refer to the pictures below about how I crochet over the popcorns. I insert the hook into the hole. So dc of this row is “growing” from the inside of the popcorn.
Rows 9-11. Repeat previous rows. But please, pay extra attention to the end of Row 11. There is a slight change at the end of the row from Row 5. You’ll be make chains and skip stitches differently. This will be valid for some of the next rows, so please pay full attention to the written instructions.
Row 12. This row is made on the wrong side and it is the last one before we change to a new color. For a neater join (for this row and all next rows on the wrong side), please insert the hook from back to front! This small trick will make the color changes almost invisible. Please, follow instructions for cutting the yarn carefully. And we will not cut Yarn A at any point. It s fastened off only at the very end, when the entire corner is completed.
Here you’ll have an important note about color changes for Colour Crafter version. Please, read it carefully. There will be a change of colors for each two of four corners. Each two opposite corners will be the same and they will slightly differ in colors from another two corners.
Row 13. Here your gauge maybe become slightly relaxed, so please watch your tension and check the angle of the corner as shown in the tips above. Maybe you might even want to change to a smaller hook for next rows.
Row 14. Change back to Yarn A at the end of this row. Again, insert the hook from back to front.
Row 15. This row will remind what we have done in Part 4. Front post stitches will be worked around the stitches of same color from three rows below and you should keep them vertical. To give you a visual tip, FPtr should be placed in central stitches between each pair of popcorns. They will divide popcorns into equal cells.
Row 16. Change to Yarn B (B/C) at the end of this row.
Row 17. This row is similar to Row 13. Popcorns will be placed directly above FPtr below.
Row 19. Similar to Row 15. FPtr will be again placed symmetrically between popcorns. And they should be vertical.
Row 21. At the end of this row magic should happen – you should end one stitch before next ch2-sp in the octagon’s corner. As you can see in the picture below, my magic didn’t really happen, but because my corner looked ok and symmetrical, I didn’t bother to find a mistake and frog. I just tweaked skipped stitches a little bit on the next rows.
Row 23. The magic should happen again and you should end in the ch2-space. YAY!
Row 24. Same as for Row 23. You should end in ch2-sp in the corner (play with skipped stitches if you don’t).
Next Round. You will be working around entire large square with Yarn A. A few decreases will be made. We’ll use the stitches of the different height to shape all the sides and make the square more or less a square.
At the end of this part you can block your square slightly to get ready for the bottom panel. But don’t stretch it too much!!
Hello and welcome to Week 7 of Rozeta CAL. Today is the Day! We will finally finish the central mandala. Isn’t it exciting? Just a few more rounds to go and the beautiful flower will blossom in all its glory. We’ll not meet with something new or unusual on this part. The petals continue to grow in the same way as in previous weeks. The rounds will become a bit longer, but hopefully instructions will be easier to follow. I can’t wait to see ALL your fantastic Rozeta mandalas finished.
Before jumping directly to the photo-tutorial, I thought I would show you something. My Rozeta journey began two years ago. I took random colors of the Scheepjes Our Tribe yarn and strated to play with them. I knew it was meant to be a tapestry. But I had no idea where this play would bring me. And how big my mandala would be.
So here it. The VERY first Rozeta sample. Now looking back at it I am thinking the colors would match my interior perfectly. If you know me well, I am all about the greys, and the teals, and the blues. And even blacks (not matter how many shades of the black you can have). If you are curious these are the shades: 970 Cypress Textiles and 975 Canadutch for smaller center, 969 Lilla Bjorn and 967 Simy for the rest of the mandala.
And just in case you missed this, two new colorways for Rozeta CAL - High Noon and Witching Hour (the choice of Simy Somer) are arriving to the shops today!
Round 61: We’ll make this round with Yarn F (G for Colour Crafter). The rhythm and instructions are pretty easy. You only need to watch for the increases from the previous round. And if their placement was correct, then this round should not bring you any trouble.
Round 62: Simple round with just Yarn A. To help you check the placement of increases, they should be made in one of the two FPtr from previous round (US terms here and throughout).
Round 63: This one is a bit tricky, but in fact it is a kind of repeat of Round 47 (from Part 5). Please, read the notes carefully. Don’t miss 3 ss in the beginning. For an easier count – please, check groups of 3 sc against tr4tog’s (“bobbles”) below. 3sc will be placed above every other tr4tog.
Round 64: Please, pay attention to the end of this round. After you join the round with ss, two more ss will be made and you will mark dc where you made last ss.
Round 65: The beginning of this round is a bit tricky, as it’s difficult to see ss. If you are not sure and pictures below don’t help, please, refer to the CAL video tutorial. Another tip would be to pay attention to the position of last sc of first 9sc in this round. Please, check the position of your sc against the picture, and adjust previous sc as needed.
Round 66: Nothing special is happening on this round. Please, change to Yarn D at the end.
Round 67: Only 3 more rounds to go!! YAY! This one is simple again. Please, pay attention to correct placement of increases.
Round 68: This is the last overlay round for the mandala. We will be making small bricks again as in Part 4. Try to keep your front post stitches straight.
Round 69: Stay on the right side and count very well. This is the last round of the mandala and thus it's very easy to feel relaxed. But correct stitches on this round will give correct base for the corners. So please, be careful. We will be shaping octagon. At the end of this round you will have either 50 or 51 sc along one of the 8 sides. This is not a mistake, so don’t worry.
Sea Square was designed especially for Granny Square Day 2019 and Chunky Monkey yarn by Scheepjes. It uses a combination of linen stitch and “brioche” crochet. With lots of texture, light weight and nice drape. It can be turned into a pillow cover or used as an afghan block.
Disclosure: this blog post contains affiliate links (marked with *)
Sea Square is worked in rounds with alternating right and wrong sides. The rounds are joined in the corners. Only one color is used per round and yarn is not cut at the end of every round (unless otherwise stated in the pattern).
Yarn A: 216 x 1 ball (13g) Yarn B: 200 x 1 ball (6g) Yarn C: 201 x 1 ball (11g)
Crochet hook 3mm
Gauge for Organicon: after 13 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across.
This square was made by Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo)
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. Mine are approx. 35cm/13.5” for Chunky Monkey, 25cm/10” for Softfun and Stone Washed, 18cm/7" for Organicon.
Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch guide
BPdc (back post double crochet): yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. ch – chain dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): [yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice] twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. rep – repeat ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook. st(s) – stitch(es) yo – yarn over
[…….] x times work the instructions between brackets the total number of times stated *…….; rep from * to ….. work the instructions after * and then rep that section as instructed
An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Round 1 (RS): With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, join with ss into first sp, turn (change to Yarn B, don’t cut Yarn A) – 4 sc, 4 ch2-sps
Round 2 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next sp] x3, ch1, skip next st, 1sc in same sp where first sc of the rounds was made, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change back to Yarn A by grabbing it up behind work) – 2sc and 1 ch1-sp on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to last sc before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1sc in last ch2-sp (where first sc of the round was made – here and throughout), join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn B), turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 4 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before next ch2-sp in the corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 3-4 twice
Round 9: As Round 3, don’t turn at the end of the round – 9 sc and 8 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10 (RS): Continue on RS with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [*hdc in next sc, 1FPdc around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip sp behind FPdc, rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner, hdc in next sc**, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss into first sp, don’t change yarn, don’t turn – 8 FPdc, 11 hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11 (RS): Continue on RS and with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [1BPdc around each st to ch2-sp in next corner, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp] x3, 1BPdc around each st to last ch2-sp, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp, turn (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn B) – 19 BPdc and 2hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12 (WS): With Yarn C. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 12 sc and 11 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 13 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in skipped st from 2 rounds below (in front of work), ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 5 dc, 8sc and 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14 (WS): With Yarn C. As Round 4 – 14 sc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 15 (RS): Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, FPtr2tog (make first leg around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip next st of same color from 2 rounds below, make second leg around next st of same color from 2 rounds below), ch1, 1sc in sp directly above same st as second leg of FPtr2tog just made; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 6 FPtr2tog, 9 sc and 14 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Rounds 16-19: Rep Rounds 14-15 twice. After Round 19 you’ll have 8 FPtr2tog, 11 sc and 18 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: Rep round 4 – 20 sc and 19 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around sc of same color from 2 rounds below, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rounds below; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn A), don’t turn – 10 FPdc, 11sc, 20 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Next rounds are made on RS.
Rounds 22-24 (RS): With Yarn C. As Round 3. After Round 24 you’ll have 24 sc and 23 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Fasten off. Weave in all tails. Block square to measurements.
Congratulations!! Your Sea Square is now finished!
Hello and welcome to Week 6 of Rozeta CAL. It feels like I am living fromt Wednesday to Wednesday recently, and that Wednesday is almost every day. Time flies and I almost run out of progress pictures. So next weeks I’ll probably have to join you and crochet along with every one else. Well, maybe still one week ahead. Otherwise how can I show you all tips and progress pictures?
If you are reading this, you have (hopefully) survived after Week 5. We did have several tricky rounds and I know some of you had to frog them and remake again and again. But they are all finished now and it also means you learned something new. And next rounds should be easier to handle, as we will in fact repeat the same stitches again.
This week we will continue growing overlay border around our Rozeta mandala. And it will be 3/4 finished!
But before we jump directly into photo-tutorial, let me share something cute with you. I am following you progress with Rozeta every day in both official Scheepjes groups on Facebook – International and Dutch. I just love seeing all your stunning pictures, and especially the ones with your furry friends. I thought I would make a collage of those pictures (thank you very much for permission to post them on my blog!). How cute are our little friends?..
And now back to Rozeta. For Part 6 we will continue crocheting in the same way as we did in previous week. We will use only one color per round and alternate right and wrong side.
Please, continue to use markers for last stitch of every round to make sure first stitch of the next round is placed correctly. And please, continue to check the flatness of your madnala after every round: lay it down (and most likely the floor will be the best option, as your mandala might not fit onto the table anymore), flatten with hands and check it against any signs of waviness. If you see some, please, adjust the gauge for the next rounds.
And one more important thing. Rounds on the wrong side with just dc seem to be very easy, as we are repeating the same stitch all way around. But because they are so simple, it’s easy to relax too much and make a mistake in stitch counts.
The placement of increases on these rounds is very important for correct placement of the overlaid stitches on the next rounds. And if you make a mistake on one of the rounds on the WS, then overlaid stitches might not line up as needed. And you will have to improvise to bring everything back to symmetry again. Or another option would be to frog previous round with just dc and remake it.
Round 53. This is a kind of repeating Round 47 – at least you will be making FPtr2togs (US crochet terms here and to end) in the same way. For an easy count, please, watch marked stitches. They will be always skipped behind one of the FPtr2tog.
Every repeat consists of 4 petals. And you will be making 4sc after the first petal inside every repeat. Maybe to help yourself, you might want to mark that first petal in every repeat. Then you know for sure where you should make 4 sc.
Round 54. Easy round but correct placement of every increase is very important!
Round 55. With an exception of the very beginning and end, this round has a rhythm: 8sc, FPtr4tog, 7sc, FPtr4tog. Sing this as a song while crocheting, and you should be fine :) Cut Yarn B at the end of this round.
Round 56. Easy again, but very important round! Change to Yarn F at the end of this round.
Round 57. Continue with Yarn F. Please, take your time to carefully make first and last stitches of this round. Don’t miss a slip stitch in the very beginning!
You don't really need to count stitch on two rounds below for making "bobbles". Just try to keep "bobbles" straight and vertical.
And maybe mark the end of every repeat? Then you will see where you should make 2 sc. they wil lbe before bobble in every fourth petal.
Round 58. As all previous round on the wrong side.
Round 59. This is the last overlay round for Part 6 (YAY!). And the stitch counts are easy as ever. Follow the beginning of the round carefully. And then just repeat 2FPtr and 7sc between them. All. Way. Around. Isn’t it fun?
Don’t forget to cut Yarn F for Colour Crafter version.
Round 60. Relax and enjoy! And don’t forget to mark all increases (first or second stitch – no matter!
Congratulations!! You are all done and ready for Week 7! And I should better hurry up to be on time next Wednesday… See you soon!
Hello and welcome to part 5 of Rozeta! And we are almost in the middle as the CAL will run for 11 weeks. Can you believe that?! Time flies! Yesterday I returned back home from KreaDoe – one of the biggest (if not the biggest) craft shows in the Netherlands. It happens every year in Utrecht, and this year was 30th already! It was the longest week for me with being in the middle of something huge, meeting lots of people, making new friends. Thank you very much for stopping by at Scheepjes stand and saying Hello. I enjoyed meeting you.
At KreaDoe you can discover all kinds of different crafts, you can buy supplies and take part in the workshops. Scheepjes stand was meant to inspire people. You could see and try most of the Scheepjes yarns, see finished projects, meet the authors of the books… and meet ALL Rozeta blankets!
I felt like a real pop star surrounded by Rozeta blankets, including two in new colourways. Lots of greetings and selfies! (Have you seen the pictures with me all over social media during last week? Not something a true introvert like me could do, but yeah, it was fun!)
Mike from a Mike’s Creatieve Wereld also stopped by to chat with me. Apparently he is making vlogs (in Dutch) about every week of the Rozeta CAL. And he also made a video tour around KreaDoe. It was nice to watch it and come back to those few busy days. Maybe Mike’s video will inspire you to come next year? In minutes 8:36-11:22 you will see a Scheepjes stand, and minutes 30:28-33:55 are about Rozeta, and me. :)
In the video above and the photos you can see two new colorways for Rozeta: High Noon (the yellow one) and Witching Hour (the moody grey one). Both kits are on its way and a little bird whispered to my ear that they should arrive to stores in next two weeks, together with a new batch of original kits.
So… if you would like to get one and join Rozeta, maybe it might be a good idea to contact your local store and ask if they will stock the kits? And if not, maybe you could still book them from international retailers? (Thank you for using my affiliate links below (marked with *), with every purchase I might be compensated with a tiny amount while you will not pay anything extra):
But let’s come back to the Rozeta CAL. We are on the week 5 already, and will continue to grow our mandala with overlay crochet stitches. Lots of fun is waiting for you (I hope).
This part is worked in back and forth again, alternating right and wrong side. Please, continue to mark last stitch of every round, as it will help you to see where the first stitch of the next round goes. Cut yarn only if the pattern is asking you to do so (no cutting on two-colored version). And don’t forget to skip the stitches behind the front post ones.
Check the flatness of your mandala after EVERY round (lay it down and try to flatten with hands). It should stay flat! If you see any signs of ruffling or waving, please, adjust your gauge for the next rounds.
Round 45. This round will be easier than the previous ones in locating front post stitches, as you will be making them around front post stitches from two rounds below (of the same color, if you are using the kit). The markers will help you to see where you should make 6sc (US terms here and throughout the tutorial). Otherwise you will be making 5sc. Don’t forget to skip 2 sts behind every pair of FPtr.
Round 46. Nothing special is happening here. You will be working on the wrong side. Mark second dc of every increase.
Round 47. This one will be a little bit tricky, as we will be making FPtr2togs. You can make them in a usual way, but I prefer so called “modified” way of making them. It means that first leg is attached around the indicated stitch, and for the next leg you will insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of the first leg just made. Marked stitch of the previous round will be always skipped behind one of the FPtr2tog. And don’t forget to make 2ss in the beginning of the round.
Round 48. YAY! You survived the previous round! And that also means that you learned something new, and next rounds will be easier to handle. Round 48 is very normal again, nothing unusual happens here.
Round 49. Don’t forget to make a slip stitch in the beginning of the round. We will be making 6sc and 7sc between FPtr4tog’s. for an easy count maybe mark every section with 6sc? It will be made after every three sections with 7sc. In other words, you will make 6sc in every fourth section!
Round 50. Simple round on the wrong side. Round 51. This is the last tricky round of the Part 5. We will have lots of bobbles (72 in total) and I hope you will enjoy them. I prefer to make tr4togs (“bobbles”) in a modified way – similar to how you made FPtr2togs on Round 47.
First leg of the tr4tog will be attached around the indicated stitch and next 3 legs will be added into the hole of the first leg just made. Please, refer to the picture below and Esther's video. You will skip one stitch behind every bobble. At the end of this round cut Yarn C for the Colour Crafter version.
Round 52. This round should not give you any troubles. Please, mark second dc of every increase.
Hello and welcome to Week 4 of Rozeta CAL! We have finished tapestry mandala last week and today will move to something new. Todays part is easier in some way, as we will only use one color per round. But don’t relax too much :) You’ll need to concentrate and count the stitches well. But hey, haven’t we counted with tapestry already.
I am in Utrecht right now, typing from a hotel room and watching calm October evening through my window. No wind, no rain, a little bit of sun. And beautiful colorful trees. Autumn is here. Just the way I like it.
It’s Monday now but I decided to prepare this blog post in advance as I will most likely not have time tomorrow and on Wednesday. I’ll be at Kreadoe – one of the biggest craft shows in the Netherlands. If you are there as well, make sure to stop by at the Scheepjes stand and say Hello. We will have Rozetas on display! I know you have your own already, but just in case you would like to see them for real and maybe squish them a little bit?..
Today’s part of the Rozeta CAL is about texture. Not too much, but just to warm you up before a massive overlay border begins. We’ll try a kind of overlay crochet technique, and hopefully by the end of the week you will feel skilled, comfortable and confident.
As already mentioned, we’ll only use one color per round. It means there will be no inner yarn you can pull to adjust the tension and keep your mandala flat (I know some of you did this with tapestry). So please, adjust your gauge as you go, compare your yarn amounts to the numbers given in the pattern. And switch to a bigger or smaller hook if needed.
The basic rule is: your mandala should remain flat and “perfectly” round!
Round 36. Nothing special happens here. Just a simple round with dc stitches (US terms here and throughout the tutorial)
Round 37. Here is the first tricky place. We will be making FPtr stitches and they should be vertical. To keep them straight, please, always choose the stitch lying a little bit forward from the current one. It may feel, like this stitch is too far, but when you complete FPtr, you will see it’s just the right one!
FPtr will NOT be 100% vertical. But your task is to keep them “more or less” vertical. In the picture below you’ll see an example of the wrong placement. This is what you are trying to avoid.
And don’t forget to skip the stitches of the previous round behind FPtr just made.
Round 38. A simple one. Please, mark all increases. You’ll need these markers to correctly align the stitches from the next round.
Round 39. And here you’ll see why we marked the increases. If you have no increase (marker), then make 5sc. If you are passing the marker – then make 6sc. Easy like that. Remove markers in the end of this round.
Round 40. Another simple round, and again mark all increases as you make them.
Round 41. After this round (and on next rounds) you will be turning you work in the end of every round, alternating work on right and back sides. To help yourself stay on track, please always mark the last stitch of the round before joining. If you mark it, you will clearly see where the first stitch of the next round will go.
Round 42. Continue with Yarn A. You marked the last stitch on the previous round and turned your work. Now you are working on the wrong side. Follow instructions for this round and again – mark last stitch of the round before joining and turning.
TIP: to make the join more invisible, when joining the rounds on the wrong side, insert the hook from back to front.
Round 43. On this round we are starting to build the base for the wide textured border. And correct stitch placement is very important for this round. Make sure your first sc goes in the last (marked) dc of the previous round. And try to keep all your FPtr straight and vertical again.
Round 44. You are working on the wrong side. Mark all increases on this round.
Yay! You are done! Congratulations! And see you next week.